Historic hill villages of the French Riviera

The French Riviera has a well-established reputation for chic lifestyles, and expensive real estate. Places like Monaco, Nice, Cannes, and Antibes sure do convey those images to the outside world. However, you do not have to travel far inland from these coastal towns to find yourself in a different world.

Looking north from the Mediterranean Sea, one is struck by how close the mountains are to the coast; not surprisingly, the region is called “Alpes Maritimes.” The hills and the mountains are dotted with long-established villages and towns. Each elevated settlement has its own history and character, but most share some common features:  fortified walls, numerous gates, a square with a church, some administrative buildings, a castle (some in good shape, others in ruins), many stone houses, and a labyrinth of narrow meandering streets.

Walking around these tranquil villages today, it is easy to forget that they were constructed as fortified communities designed to keep out pirates and ward off attacks by rival rulers. The fact that they have been so well preserved is testament to the commitment of the French state as well as private citizens to maintain heritage buildings of great historical value.

In the last century, many of these villages attracted famous writers and painters who succumbed to their charms. Today, tourism is an important source of revenue for the villages closest to the coast, and they have adjusted to this reality by attracting artists, galleries, shopkeepers, and restauranteurs who can provide what visitors look for. Motor traffic tends to be limited in these towns, which explains in part why they are such havens of peace and a pleasure to explore on foot.

We recently had an enjoyable time in Nice, during the off-season, and we had the opportunity to visit several of the hill communities that can be reached by public transport. This post focuses on four of those: Èze, Haut-de-Cagnes, Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Vence.

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Modern-Day Pilgrims in Saint-Émilion

While we have enjoyed many wines from the Saint-Émilion region in the past, we knew very little of the fascinating history that contributed to making this small medieval village, only a few kilometres north-east of Bordeaux, such an important pilgrimage site and the centre of a thriving wine industry to this day. We joined a guided tour run by the Office de Tourisme de Bordeaux to learn more.

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Slowing down in Bordeaux

When we heard that Bordeaux prides itself on being a “slow tourism” destination, we just knew that we would like the city. Guidebooks say that you can visit Bordeaux in three days, but to allow us time to linger, we booked an apartment-hotel for eight nights. That was not even enough time to fully appreciate the city.

Bordeaux is beautiful, friendly, interesting to explore, and historically rich. It has an excellent, reasonably priced, public transit system comprised of sleek trams, modern electric buses, river boats (Le Bato) and rental bicycles. As a result, the city is not noisy and the tranquility contributes to its relaxed atmosphere.

We got the impression that the city’s heart beats on the street, in public squares and gardens and in cafes along the Garonne river. On beautiful summer evenings, people were dining outdoors on patios. We saw many young families in the parks, playing in the water of the reflecting pool (Miroir d’eau) and attending free outdoor events.

We came back home thinking that, in Bordeaux, living in “slow” mode is more than a motto.

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Remembrance

The grim first anniversary of the invasion of Ukraine brought us to reflect on the devastation and human cost of war. We are neither military history buffs nor World War 1 enthusiasts. More like the opposite: we don’t even watch war movies. Nevertheless, we visited northern France in 2003 because we thought it was important to see the Vimy Memorial to help us understand the significance of the Canadian victory at Vimy Ridge.

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