Slowing down in Bordeaux

When we heard that Bordeaux prides itself on being a “slow tourism” destination, we just knew that we would like the city. Guidebooks say that you can visit Bordeaux in three days, but to allow us time to linger, we booked an apartment-hotel for eight nights. That was not even enough time to fully appreciate the city.

Bordeaux is beautiful, friendly, interesting to explore, and historically rich. It has an excellent, reasonably priced, public transit system comprised of sleek trams, modern electric buses, river boats (Le Bato) and rental bicycles. As a result, the city is not noisy and the tranquility contributes to its relaxed atmosphere.

We got the impression that the city’s heart beats on the street, in public squares and gardens and in cafes along the Garonne river. On beautiful summer evenings, people were dining outdoors on patios. We saw many young families in the parks, playing in the water of the reflecting pool (Miroir d’eau) and attending free outdoor events.

We came back home thinking that, in Bordeaux, living in “slow” mode is more than a motto.

The city was named France’s “Greenest City” in 2023 because of its efforts to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Actions taken include encouraging the use of bicycles, creating new green spaces, continually expanding the number of pedestrian streets, and advocating an environment friendly lifestyle. Bordeaux’s current mayor, elected in 2020, is a member of the Green Party.

Since 2007, the port of Bordeaux and most of the city centre (known as “Port de la Lune” because of the crescent shape of the Garonne flowing through the city) forms the largest urban UNESCO World Heritage Site in the world (over 1,800 hectares or 40% of the city).

To get a bit of historical background, we visited the Musée d’Aquitaine. There we learned that Bordeaux was an important Roman settlement as early as 60 BC, and it was the Romans who introduced the vine to the area. From the twelfth to the fifteenth century, Aquitaine was under English rule and during that period the English developed a great liking for Bordeaux wines, which helped foster the development of the industry.

The Golden Age of Bordeaux was in the eighteenth century when forty percent of France’s foreign trade went through its port. Great wealth accrued to the merchant class through the exportation of wines and the lucrative triangular slave trade from West Africa to the French Caribbean colonies. The importation of sugar from the colonies was also very profitable. The Bordeaux elite built the impressive avenues, streets and buildings that form the core of the area that acquired UNESCO World Heritage status.

Bordeaux harbours many vestiges of its complex past: Roman ruins, narrow laneways from medieval times, monumental gates to the ancient walled city and a vast number of impressive churches dating from different centuries. The city was also an epicentre of the French Revolution because of the massive wealth disparity between this elite group and the impoverished masses. The Monument aux Girondins is a reminder of the Period of Terror that followed the Revolution.

The Bordeaux Tourist Office has traced a meandering four km trail (marked by small bronze discs on the pavement) that allows a leisurely exploration of the main sites. But don’t forget to look upwards. Above the windows of many historic limestone buildings you can see decorative ornaments in the form of faces (called mascarons) which are typical of Bordeaux’s architecture. Each mascaron is unique and tells a story.

But Bordeaux is not stuck in the past. Even its new architecture is striking. The Gambetta-Meriadeck district is the administrative heart of the city. Its modern buildings, such as the Palais de Justice, are daring yet stylish. Upriver, the new Jacques-Chaban-Delmas lift-bridge is a wonder of modern engineering. Let’s not forget to mention the decanter-shaped design of the Cité du Vin, a truly engrossing museum devoted to the world of wine.

Bordeaux is widely known as the Wine Capital of the World. At the end of June, the historic port area hosts the annual wine festival. Not surprisingly, despite the large crowds, the atmosphere was relaxed and good-humoured.

We also had time to discover where locals go to relax and experience nature in the city. We strolled along the banks of the Garonne, explored the Botanic Garden and enjoyed le Jardin Public, all of which were well frequented. We even attended a free orchestral performance in Parc Rivière, which was part of Le Festival de la Musique.

We felt that Bordeaux delivered on its promise to be a good destination for people who enjoy life in the slow lane. We hope our short video convinces you.