We have long harbored the dream of crossing the Atlantic just to spend a weekend in Paris, one of our favourite cities in the world. Coming from snowy Canada, Paris, especially in the spring, holds special memories for us. We realised that dream during Easter Weekend in 2018.
We were reminiscing about our many visits to Paris at various times of the year as we were listening to L’Hymne à l’amour by Edit Piaf at home one evening. No sooner had the song finished (for the fourth time), we hopped onto the Air Canada website with a devil may care mindset and a determination to book flights.
We got excellent value return flights from Ottawa to Paris, through Montreal. Feeling particularly sentimental, we decided to reserve a room at l’Hôtel Jean Bart, a small family-run hotel that holds warm dreamy memories for us. Its location, just beside the Luxembourg Gardens, adds to the charm. Within thirty minutes, our travel arrangements were all sorted out.
We traveled really light, bringing only carry-on luggage. On arriving at Charles De Gaulle Airport, we took the RER B to Luxembourg Station. This stop is handy as we just must cross the Luxembourg park to get to our hotel.
Sitting in the Jardins du Luxembourg, we simply melted into the Paris air and rhythm. We at once knew that our whim was right. The Luxembourg Gardens have always been magical for us. After lingering for a while, watching kids playing with boats in the fountain and people sitting in the morning sun, we headed to our hotel for an early check-in and a few hours of sleep.
We expected to meet our familiar hotelier, a true character and reliable continuity over the years. Unfortunately, we found out that he had recently passed away. We missed his presence but felt that he was with us in spirit.
Our favourite Easter Sunday activity of all time is to attend mass at l’Église St-Eustache, in the Les Halles district. This church is famous for its organ concerts and choir performances. We remember vividly one Easter mass there that concluded with the celebrant ordering the opening of the “grandes portes” of the church to let in the Paris sun. An image hard to erase from memory.
Part of the church was under repair in 2018 so the main doors could not be opened that day, but in our minds, we could imagine the Paris sun filtering through the cavernous church.
The City of Lights changes but it never fails to delight.
(This is a revised version of a post originally published on John’s old blog.)