The long span of history

Throughout its history, the Iberian Peninsula has been a land on a crossroad: between Western Europe and Africa and between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, as far as the New World. Today’s Spain has been shaped by groups of hunter-gatherers, explorers, conquerors, traders and migrants from around the world. It has been ruled, in turn, by Roman emperors, Christian Visigoths, Muslim Moors and Catholic monarchs.

Recently, when we walked through the historic districts of Toledo, Seville, Granada, and Cordoba, we saw Roman ruins, Moorish palaces, evocative monuments, ancient mosques, synagogues and monasteries and several treasure-laden churches. We experienced the richness of Spain’s intricate past but we also felt the weight of its history.

From our perspective, the perfect place to get an appreciation of Spain’s complex history is a walled city called Segovia. This small city is just an hour by bus to the northwest of Madrid, in the region of Castile and León. Segovia is worth the detour.

The city of Segovia has been protected as a “Historic Site” under Spanish law since 1941. In 1985, it was also recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These designations acknowledge the city’s historical significance and the important and well-preserved monuments within it. In addition, UNESCO emphasizes that the city’s urban design and architecture reflect the traditional social hierarchy and the coexistence of different religious communities (Christians, Jews and Muslims), down the centuries.

Segovia’s 2nd century Roman aqueduct is a massive masterpiece of engineering. It was built to bring water from a source seventeen kilometres away to fill the city’s cisterns, baths, and fountains. Partly destroyed during the Moorish era, the aqueduct was reconstructed according to the original plans in the 15^th century.

As it enters the city, there is a bend in the aqueduct which makes it even more spectacular. At the Plaza del Azoguejo, the aqueduct reaches its tallest height of 28.5 metres, including six metres of foundation. In this section there are 167 two-tier arches built from thousands of granite blocks held together without mortar. It is not surprising that the aqueduct is the symbol of Segovia, and it is proudly displayed on the city’s flag and coat of arms.

Like so many of the grand buildings we saw in Spain, the 11th century Alcázar changed hands and was repurposed through the years. The palace was built on the remains of a Roman fortress and housed the Moorish rulers from the 8th to the 14th century. After the Spanish Reconquista, the Alcázar became a residence for the new Castille nobility.

During the 17th and 18th centuries, the palace housed a state prison. Later, the Royal College of Artillery was located there. Today, it is possible to visit the sumptuously decorated rooms inside the palace, explore the outstanding collection of medieval weaponry and armour and climb the tower to get an unimpeded view of the city and the surrounding countryside.

A walk through the city’s narrow cobbled streets reveals a dense network of palaces, convents, monasteries, churches and habitations. Going from the Alcázar to the impressive 16th century Gothic Cathedral, you pass through the old Jewish Quarter, still identifiable by subtle signs.

We visited Segovia on Palm Sunday and the Cathedral was filled with the faithful. The adjoining main square was the site of a solemn procession marking the feast day. The religious celebrations in Segovia during “Semana Santa” have been declared to be of “National Tourist Interest.” There, as in cities in Andalucía, these colourful ceremonies are part of today’s history in the making.

This short video gives you a taste of the sights of Segovia from Roman times to the present day.