Sacred Clonmacnoise

There are many holy places in Ireland and countless ancient sites and ruins. When we lived there together in the eighties, we always kept in the car a handy reference book titled Guide to the National Monuments of Ireland, by Peter Harbison. This amazing book led us to explore many wonderful locations, off the beaten track.

Due to its size and significance, all Irish people have heard about Clonmacnoise, an ancient monastic site in County Offaly, but not all have had an opportunity to visit it. We passed close to it many times on the main Dublin-Galway Road until we finally made the detour. Situated near the Shannon River to the south of Athlone, the historical site is a treasure trove of ruins: ancient churches, a castle, three stone crosses, round towers, and numerous engraved grave-slabs.

When Pope John Paul II visited Clonmacnoise in 1979, he highlighted its “great monastic contribution” to Europe for over one thousand years, thanks to the influence of its missionary monks and its scholars.

One of the gems of Clonmacnoise is the well-preserved Cross of the Scriptures which dates from the 10th century. This four-metre-high cross, made of sandstone, is decorated with a series of panels depicting biblical scenes.

The image to the left is one of the few photos we have of our first visit, but we still remember the feeling of peace we experienced there. We were by ourselves on that day, but armed with our book, we got a sense of what it must have been like centuries ago.

Having moved abroad, we did not have another opportunity to return to Clonmacnoise until 2019. On our second visit, we were amazed to see how the holy site, in the hands of the Office of Public Works, has been protected, made secure, and enhanced to make its long history both compelling and accessible to all.

The site has acquired a visitor centre, and a museum and interpretive centre. In addition, for a small entrance fee, you receive a highly informative visitor’s guide. The three high crosses have been moved inside the museum, protected from the elements, and replicas stand where the original crosses used to be on the site.

Over 160,000 people now visit every year, from Ireland and beyond. Despite the bigger crowds, the place has retained its atmosphere of peace and tranquility. We hope the video slideshow will provide you with a sense of the place. It is well worth the detour.

A little background history

Saint Ciarán was granted land by a future High King of Ireland around the year 544 to establish a monastery in the centre of Celtic Ireland. It was to be positioned strategically at the junction of the River Shannon and the primary east-west land route atop the raised ground (Esker Riada) which crosses the bogs of the Irish midlands. Clonmacnoise quickly became a prominent centre of learning and craftsmanship.

The monastery was most active and achieved its greatest influence between the 8th and 12th centuries. It is estimated that a community of between 2,000 and 6,000 people lived, prayed, studied, and worked there. Because the monastery was closely aligned with royalty, many prominent people were buried on the site, including the last High King of Ireland who died in 1198.

Several local factors and historical events led to the slow decline of Clonmacnoise, including the many times it was plundered for its treasures. The site fell into ruin after it was last pillaged by the English garrison posted at nearby Athlone in 1552. The demise of Clonmacnoise coincided with the Tudor conquest of Ireland and the dissolution of Catholic monasteries.

Click here to learn more about Clonmacnoise.