We visited Alberta in late May a few years back. One memorable aspect of the trip is the drive from Banff to Jasper, one of the most spectacular drives in the world.
We learned we were in for “mixed” weather when we arrived in Banff in a heavy snowfall. It was late May, so how could this be happening? A friend had told us a few years earlier that it had snowed in Calgary during 11 of the 12 preceding months. Motto of the story – be prepared for variable weather in that part of the world.
With snowy Banff behind us, we headed early next morning for Lake Louise and our first stop was the idyllically situated Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. The basement breakfast buffet gave us plenty of fuel for the lakeside walk we took on the grounds of the hotel just after.
The sun had emerged by that time and we had a beautiful view of the still frozen lake and the surrounding snow-capped mountains. We lingered by the lake and marveled at the awesome silent beauty of the place. We were now in holiday mode and we knew we would continue northwards to Jasper in the slow lane. Next destination on our journey was the Columbia Icefield.
We signed up for the whole experience there: a tour of the Skywalk, lunch at the Altitude restaurant in the Glacier Discovery Centre and the trip up to the glacier by bus and people transporter. On the Skywalk you get the sensation of walking off a cliff with the glass floor giving you the illusion of walking on air. The information panels gave great insights into the formation of the Rockies over time.
The trip up to the glacier in the Ice Explorer is a world class experience. On the way up there, the guide gives great background information on glaciers and their behaviour in the different seasons. We were left with the distinct impression that the Athabasca glacier has been shrinking in recent years.
After a few hours here, we rejoined Highway 93 north through Jasper National Park. Along that stretch of road we saw bighorn sheep, elk and black bear.
Next we stopped at the Sunwapta Falls to take a beautiful riverside walk. Except for the sounds of the powerful falls (fueled by the Spring run-off), we were in total silence, without another person in sight. Pure heaven! We made it to Jasper before dark and checked in to our hotel cabin by the lake.
Waking beside that still lake, walking along its banks with the rising sun at ones back, strolling along its banks in the fading light, and falling asleep to the cry of the loon are some of the most beautiful memories we took from that trip. The reflections of mountains and trees in the lake, as well as mist rising from it are etched forever in a happy place in the mind’s eye.
Another memorable visit in the Jasper area is to take the Sky Tram at the Whistlers Mountain overlooking the village. You will be rewarded with magnificent views.
Our final morning at the Lodge, we had a spectacular lakeside breakfast in the Orso Trattoria restaurant, which we recommend highly. We set out soon after breakfast to make it to Calgary for an early evening flight. We were rewarded with a leisurely drive through the mountains on a bright sunny day, enjoying the big skies and expansive views, which changed with every twist in the road.
Our main stop on this trip southward was at the Athabasca Falls where we lingered over half an hour. Hopefully, if you haven’t done so already, you will also get to see the beauties of that majestic “big sky” drive yourself someday soon.
(This is a revised version of a post originally published on John’s old blog.)